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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. But, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small place securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary honour.